the hunt for khao soi

Khao Soi from my trip to Thailand

The idea for this post has been on my mind for a couple years, and I finally got around to sharing it!   Back in 2011, I had visited Thailand and Cambodia with my friend teentz.  In Thailand, we had refreshingly fresh fruit smoothies, spicy curries, and other exotic dishes.  Originally, teentz and I had planned on relaxing on the beaches of Koh Samui ; however, at the last-minute, a tsunami made us re-route our journey.  Teentz always wanted to play with tigers and ride elephants, which is what led us to re-route to Chiang Mai.  After an overnight train ride from Bangkok, we arrived in the culture-rich city of Chiang Mai.  While there, we took a cooking class where we learned how to make curries and shop at a Thai open market, rode elephants, and teentz fulfilled a lifelong dream of playing with tigers.  Teentz and I are both foodies and upon check-in, we asked our hotel if they had any recommendations for local specialties.  They automatically referred us to a favorite restaurant and recommended we try the khao soi (Thai curry noodle soup).  That was the first time I had ever heard of, not to mention try, khao soi, and it changed my life.  From the brilliant red, flavorful spices of the soup to the crunchy noodles, sour lime, and fresh cilantro, this soup made an indelible impression on me.  Teentz and I had khao soi as much as possible while we were in Chiang Mai, branching out and trying other shops that served it, too.   Even after I returned to the U.S., the flavors haunted me and remained one of the highlights of my trip.

Though I love to cook, I had never ventured making Thai food, thinking that the curries were intimidating and regarding coconut milk as an exotic ingredient.  However, I loved khao soi so much that I tried to make it.  Unfortunately, my 1^st attempt turned into a goopy, thick, and heavy mess that scarred me and prevented me from trying again.  I also searched for it on restaurant menus, but had no luck…or the American version was a sad copy.   Neither homemade nor restaurant versions could capture the essence of the soup that I so loved in Thailand, and so I just buried the memory.

Fast forward to 2014, my friend K (of Roast Chicken fame – see the only other blog post) raved about a Thai restaurant that had just opened in Union Square.  Her foodie husband C had heard about this restaurant, Kin Khao, in his foodie circles and took K.  Because she loved it, K then brought me and a few coworkers there for a dinner.   After that first dining experience, I fell in love with Kin Khao.  I felt it was the only Thai restaurant that accurately captured the flavors and spices from the dishes I had in Thailand.  I usually avoid Thai restaurants when venturing out because the flavors pale in comparison to what I remembered, but this felt authentic.  And lo and behold, Kin Khao had khao soi on the menu, which I immediately ordered!  After the first satisfying spoonful, I thought “This is it!  This is what I remembered!” 

I found out that Kin Khao was opened by former blogger Pim Techamuanvivit, who had ventured into the restaurant business.  On her website, I also stumbled upon her recipe for khao soi, which I got excited about because if anyone could be a trusted source, it would be a native Thai food writer!   

My first time using this recipe was for my friend L, who I was having over for dinner.  I remember planning to make something else, but at the last minute changed my mind and tried making khao soi.  I frequently break the cardinal rule of never make something for the first time for guests, and this time, I did it yet again.  Of course, I was nervous!  However, with that attempt (and this recipe), I learned the secret: to make khao soi successfully, you need to stir the coconut milk until it breaks (or separates).   The recipe infers that it should happen quickly; however, I found this to be the most time consuming step because you need to keep stirring the coconut milk with the curry, and the separating part takes a lot longer than expected.  The first time, I kept questioning whether it had broken or whether I missed it, since it took so long.  However, I assure you, when it separates, you’ll know.  I found the other key to the success of this recipe is heating the curry paste and spices until it is fragrant, but not burnt.  The smell is amazing and the flavors from the paste infuse throughout the whole broth.   L loved the soup, which was a huge relief!  Subsequent guests have also loved it, and tell me they dream about the flavors, too!  Though I don’t frequently make this soup, every time I do, I am surprised and in awe of the depth and complexity of the flavors and my heart contentedly whispers “This. This is what I was looking for and I finally found it.”

Khao Soi (Northern Chicken Curry Noodles)

Adapted from New York Times recipe by Pim Techamuanvivit

INGREDIENTS

Serves 4 

• 3 to 4 cups plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 2 ½ tablespoons red curry paste
• 1 teaspoon curry powder (Note: this is NOT Indian curry, but Thai curry.  I originally used Thai curry that I brought back from Thailand, but when I ran out, I ordered some from SpiceJungle)
• ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
• 2 large brown cardamom, finely ground (optional) (Note: I usually use ground)
• 3 cups coconut milk (Note: I usually use 3 cans when doubling this recipe.  Also, the type of coconut milk is important)
• 1 (3- to 4-pound) chicken, cut into 6 pieces (Note: I usually use chicken thighs and will thinly slice them)
• 1 ½ to 2 cups chicken stock or water
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce, and more to taste
• 6 to 7 loosely packed cups spaghetti-size fresh Chinese egg noodles (Note: I like thin white noodles better)
• 6 dried thin red chilies (Note: I usually don't use)
• 2 shallots, thinly sliced
• 12 to 1 cup rinsed and thinly sliced Chinese pickled mustard greens (Note: I usually don't use)
• 1 lime, cut into wedges
•  Handful cilantro, chopped
• Lemongrass (Note: I added this one time as an experiment and I liked it)

PREPARATION

(Note: I usually double the recipe, though I approximate and use 2 packages of Trader Joe's chicken thighs, and it will serve 6-7, or fewer with yummy leftovers)

1. Place a large, heavy-bottomed casserole over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, red curry paste, curry powder, turmeric and, if you choose, cardamom. Cook for a few minutes, stirring vigorously, until the curry paste is fragrant. Be careful it doesn't burn. Add 1 cup of the coconut milk and bring to a boil. Boil for a few minutes, stirring well, until red oil separates from the coconut mixture. Add 1 more cup of the coconut milk, return to a boil, and again boil until the oil separates.

 

Spices with coconut milk (not separated yet)

Note: I found the type of coconut oil to be important.  There was one batch where I used Chaudoc and the milk had separated.  That attempt was a fail and I had to start over.  You want to make sure that the milk is thick, creamy, and white.

My go-to brand for coconut milk 

2.  Add the chicken pieces, 1 cup chicken stock and remaining 1 cup coconut milk. If the mixture is very thick, add additional chicken stock or water as needed. Bring back to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add the sugar and fish sauce. Cover and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 45 minutes. Season to taste with fish sauce; the flavor should be salty and spicy with an aftertaste of sweetness. (It should be a bit saltier than you wish for the final dish, as the addition of other ingredients at serving time will dilute the seasoning.)

3. Place a large saucepan over medium-high heat, and add the remaining vegetable oil. Place 1 cup of the noodles in a bowl and separate the strands. When the oil is shimmering, add the noodles a few strands at a time. Fry them, turning once, until crisp and golden. Remove from heat and set aside. Add the dried chilies to the pan and fry for a few seconds until they puff up; set aside. (Note: I usually don't fry the noodles, but I do like frying shallots.  I like the sweetness they add)

4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Rinse the remaining noodles in cold water, and add to the boiling water. Cook until barely tender, 2 to 3 minutes, stirring well to prevent sticking. Drain well.

5. To serve, divide the noodles among 4 bowls, and top with chicken curry. Garnish with shallots, mustard greens, fried noodles and lime wedges. Add fried chilies to taste, for extra heat. Sprinkle with cilantro, and serve.